This is spectacular fabric is from Polytex Stoffen. It is a stretch jacquard with a wonderful 3D ribbed texture. It is one of the special fabrics selected for Fibre Mood 22.
Polytex supplies a large network of shops across Europe with a fantastic variety of fabrics. The Fibre Mood website has a list of retailers that sells their fabric collection for each launch. This fabric was used for several of the new pattern launches in this colour and a deeper denim blue. It is a beautifully soft fabric that almost feels like a double gauze. The 'ribbed' texture gives it good structure and body making it perfect for a light weight vest like Marcia. I chose this lovely peach colour thinking it would be a great accent colour for the start of spring wardrobe. Coupled with perfectly matched Mettler thread, it is bright and cheerful way to welcome in longer days and more sunshine.
I love a great vest pattern and knew right away that the Marcia had the perfect design elements to highlight the 3D elements of this fabric. Marcia is a versatile pattern. It can be worn layered over sweaters as or act as a light layer to keep out the chill of spring and summer evenings. Sewn up in a heavier fabric it will be a superb body warmer or a first rate winter coat when you attach the sleeves.
Marcia can be made with or without the stand up collar. The slash pockets have a welt opening which add a lovely detail. I chose to make the vest version but it comes with the option of adding zip in full length sleeves with an elasticized cuff. You can even make a matching Micky jacket for your little one! It is a practical, creative, versatile make.
Marcia is designed with a loose more oversized cut. I graded the pattern down two sizes from the underarm through to the waistband. The armholes are quite roomy which allows for layering over thicker sweaters or blouses with big sleeves. The vest itself is a simple construction made up of the front and back pieces, sleeves if you want them and large cuffs that attach to the shoulder. It definitely gives off a bit of retro 80's vibe.
The welt pocket takes several steps to construct. It is important that you make sure to include all of the marking with either tailors chalk or marking threads. These will guide you through the construction of the welt and adding the inner pocket bag. The directions and illustrations for these steps are excellent. If you haven't sewn a welt pocket before, I would highly suggest practising the pattern steps a couple times with scrap fabric as you do have to cut into the front fabric piece and wouldn't want to make any mistakes. Take your time and you will have wonderful welt pockets that you can be proud of.
Once your welt pockets are done the rest of Marcia sews up quickly. Adding the collar is straight forward and the cuff and cuff facing attach easily. The understitching is an important step for both the collar and cuffs, make sure to press your pattern pieces and keep your stitching close to the edge to help anchor the facings. This is such a great help for having your facings lay flat and to give you crisp edges.
I chose gold snaps for my Marcia. The pattern comes with two markings for the collar and the first and last marking for the front closure. I divided the space in between and placed the remaining snaps 4.5" apart. I attach the top of the snap first, then lay if flat over the lower facing, pressing it into the fabric. This leaves a slight indentation from the center of the snap, allowing you to position the lower snap so they line up perfectly. I work on one snap at a time, snapping them together as I move onto the next snap. This keeps everything lined up perfectly and prevents the fabric from having any bulges along the closure. Once again, it is a slower, more careful process that results in a polished tailored look.
Marcia is a fun, creative sew. It allows you to combine several sewing techniques to make a unique vest or coat. I think this would look fantastic in a denim with a contrast top stitching and decorative snaps. Your options really are endless. After all.... there is Sew Much To Design.
Happy Sewing,
Lou Sheffer
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