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Writer's pictureLou Sheffer

An Oversized Shirt: A Modern Equivalent to the Pretty Woman Brown Dress.

This outfit didn’t start out as a Co-ord set but I am incredibly pleased that is how it ended up!

Cotton poplin is a wonderful fabric. It has a crispness and structure that gives a garment an elevated look; even a pair of elastic shorts! Poplin is probably the only natural fabric that you can “hear” while sewing, responding with a gentle ‘crunch” as you move the fabric. The name “poplin” comes from French and Italian words, both referring sewing clothes for the pope. It is a durable material with a smooth crispness that is known for its ability to hold its shape well.


Made of 100% cotton it is durable and breathable. It will withstand constant washings without losing its brightness and its ability to breathe makes it the perfect fabric to wear in any temperature. It has a heat-regulating ability that keeps you cool in summer and warm in winter. A cotton poplin print will not fade much over time and it shrinks very little after its initial wash.


This particular poplin from Minerva Fabrics is the perfect “Pretty Woman” combination of dark chocolate brown and white polka dots. I couldn’t resist it when it was offered as one of my choices as a Fabric Ambassador. This particular poplin comes in over 45 colour choices-there may be another colour that finds its way to me. Everyone will find their perfect pop of colour, wardrobe basic…or both.


The question was what to make? Cotton poplin is an amazing fabric to make absolutely anything in your wardrobe from tops to dresses to pants. I have had the Assembly Line Oversized shirt on my “To Make” list for a long time, and it was the perfect choice for this crisp, classic fabric and print. This shirt pattern is based on classic styling with a more roomy oversized cut. It has relaxed shoulders, a traditional collar, rear box pleat and cuffs. The pattern also comes with a straight collar stand option.


The shirt is quite oversized, so I sized down to the medium option. It still gives me an oversized look and feel without too much extra fabric. I did not have to lengthen the bodice at all which was nice, but the sleeves needed an additional 3cm as well as doubling the length of the cuff. I would add an additional 5cm to the sleeve if I was going to use an basic cuff of fold it for a french cuff option.


Instead of including the inseam pockets I created an 10” slit up the side of my shirt. The slit allows for more styling options which you will see in more outfit pictures. If I was making an oversized shirt dress option or was creating a shirt I wouldn’t tuck in, I would definitely include the side seam pockets.


As you know, I love a pop collar and what better way to add some texture and stand to my collar then to add some chocolate brown suede. This was suede I had saved when I shortened a circle skirt. It is a lovely soft dark chocolate brown, perfect for the richness of this collar. The collar on this pattern is perfectly designed. I have sewn many collared patterns and I have to say this styling and construction was by far my favourite. The sleeve placket and cuff construction were also thoughtfully designed and they sew together very easily. If you have never sewn a collared shirt with cuffs this is the perfect pattern to start with.


I finished my shirt with my favourite kind of haberdashery; vintage buttons. My favourite end to a project like this is a trip to my local notions store, Buttons and Bows. Along with many wonderful fabric and notion options, their vintage button selection is fantastic. They are a must see visit if you are ever in Victoria, BC, Canada.

My shorts are also an Assembly Line pattern-they are the free PJ pattern. Which essentially means I wear my PJ’s in public 😆 if I wear them out. Seriously, although they are a PJ pattern they are the perfect pattern for casual elasticized shorts. Their side seam pockets are an added bonus for wearing out or around the house and nice to have as I didn’t include this option on the shirt.


This shirt was designed to be worn untucked as an oversized piece. Here you can see it styled with a pair of self-drafted linen pants. It is the perfect shirt to pair with pants for a casual summer look. The curved hem and lines of the shirt make it chic and comfortable.


I know that this will be a shirt that I wear often. It is versatile and offers a great addition to any wardrobe from casual weekend dress to work and anything in between.


This will definitely not be the only one I make, after all…..

There is Sew Much To Design.



Happy Shirt Sewing

Lou Sheffer






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