Sewing with a sweater knit will add comfort and coziness to your fall/winter wardrobe. When you are working with a heavier sweater knit there are sewing techniques that will help you to get the comfort of sweater season without over stretching your sweater knits or over burdening your overlocker.
When this heavy cotton sweater knit arrived from Minerva Fabrics, I knew it would perfect for a mini sweater knit capsule for fall. It is a quality chunky cotton sweater knit from Minerva’s Core Range collection, available in 47 different colours!! The larger knit definitely gives it a hand knitted look. It is an OEKO-TEX fabric; 80% cotton and 20% polyester with a heavier looser knit and an elegant drape. This knit is perfect for sweaters, vests and dresses.
I hadn’t sewn with a sweater knit this heavy before so I started by making a vest. The weight of the knit itself can cause it to stretch so I experimented with adding thin strips of iron-on interfacing around the neckline. It worked like a dream to help it to hold its shape.
I used 10mm clear elastic along the shoulder seam to give it some stretch but to help with holding its shape as the knit is quite heavy. Both of these techniques worked really well and I will definitely use them with the other two makes I am planning with this knit.
Before sewing the vest together I took the time to overlock all the edges of the pattern pieces, making doubly sure to not pull the fabric through the serger. The fabric is quite thick so after reinforcing both the neckline and the neck facing with interfacing, I sewed all four layers together with my sewing machine using a stretch zigzag.
The side seams for the serger were ok, but four layers for the neckline and waistband was just too much. All of these techniques combined gave great results, I highly recommend taking the extra time to use them so you are happy with your final make, how it fits and how it hangs.
My first make was the Grasser Vest No. 864. It’s a classic layering piece with a deep V-Neckline that allows you to create a variety of outfits. Grasser patterns are purchased in single sizes, so I purchase mine based on my bust measurement then grade down through the hips and I often size down across the shoulder by one size. I love the extra wide neckline and cuff detail on this vest.For my first outfit I layered my vest over a French Terry tshirt, the Albina from Fibre Mood, and a pair of leggings. I love the dark brown contrast of the outfit that highlights the vest.
For my second sweater knit item I made a basic tube skirt reminiscent of the ones we wore in the later 80’s. If you don’t want to use a pattern simply cut the width of your skirt 1” larger than you hip measurement and add an elastic waist. If you want to use a pattern that grades the waist measurement down for you already, try the Elemental Skirt Pattern from Sew House Seven- it is a go-to skirt pattern for me and its freee!
For this outfit I layered my vest over the Assembly Line oversized shirt made from this crisp cotton poplin from Minerva. Another great basic that can be styled in countless ways. My tote bag is made from Minerva fabric; a gorgeous heavy faux leather with bamboo handles using the Amanda Ring Bag pattern from Sammy Atelier. I love that this entire outfit reflects the variety and quality of Minerva Fabrics and provides great sweater knit basics for fall.
My final make with this glorious sweater knit was an oversized turtleneck again by Grasser patterns. I love the combination of an oversized sweater paired with a long narrow skirt. For this sweater I used the clear elastic on the shoulder seams. I put a thin strip of interfacing along the waistband and arm holes as well as on the sleeve cuff and waistband, sewing the four layers together with a stretch stitch on my sewing machine. These techniques guarantee that the cuffs and waistband maintain their shape and that the sweater knit does not completely stretch out of shape when you are attaching them. This tiny strip of interfacing gives just a little bit of extra structure for a heavier knit. If you want to do the same with your turtleneck I suggest only adding the interfacing along the front neckline so that there is a little give in the knit through the back for pulling the sweater on and off.
I hope that these sewing techniques will help you to feel more confident when sewing with a heavier sweater knit. There is nothing better than a cozy sweater to curl up when you start to plan your next sewing project, after all there is Sew Much To Design.
Happy Sweater Sewing,
Lou Sheffer