I have always been drawn to the Hudson Pant pattern by True Bias but never brought myself to make them because I didn't need another pair of sweat pants. I loved that this pattern had a mid-rise which is my ultimate fit, but I definitely wanted them in a woven fabric. When I found this pleather fabric I decided to embark on creating a custom hacked Hudson pattern for woven fabrics. After two muslins I am happy to say that I have a pattern I can use over and over for any woven fabric.
The Hudson is an updated take on the classic sweat pant. It has front pockets, an elastic mid rise waistband, drawstring, and cuffs. The modern fit of these pants leaves a bit of extra room around the hips and then tapers into a skinny leg.
One of my favourite features of the Hudson is the detailed trim that is added to the front pocket. The design of the pocket is fun to sew and the end result looks tailored and polished.
For my adapted woven Hudson, I chose to make the full length pant without a cuff and the drawstring. I made several adjustments to the pattern including sizing up 2 sizes from the recommended size for knits, adding 1" to the front and back rise, reducing the curve for the hip and lengthening for a 33" inseam.
My other pattern hack was creating my top. For this top I used the New Look 6525 dress pattern that I just featured here in my previous blog post. I loved the fit of the dress through the shoulders, chest and arms so much I wanted to create a go-to long sleeve knit t-shirt pattern. I kept the higher crew neck that the turtleneck would be sewn too and added a knit neck binding. I cut a 2" X 20" strip, sewed the ends together, folded it wrong sides together then attached it to the neckline. I am really pleased with the end result.
As the dress is more of an A-line cut I graded the side seam straight down from just under the armscye. This allows for a straighter fit. I used the straight sleeve pattern adding 5" in length. Once again I have a custom fit pattern for making crew neck dresses or shirts.
Taking the time to hack these patterns and create custom fit pieces will be well worth it in the end. I will be able to recreate both the pants and knit shirt for endless combinations that are chic, comfortable and will add to my seasonal capsule wardrobes.
After all.... There is Sew Much To Design
Happy Pattern Hacking,
Lou Sheffer
