This beautiful fabric was gifted to me by the Royal BC Museum as part of a #SecondLife sustainable sewing project. Previously used as part of a display at the museum I was really excited to #refashion it into this luxurious jacket. This is the second jacket I have made, my first BC Museum can be seen here.
It took me a while to find the right pattern for this fabric, but as soon as I found the Style Arc Parker I knew it would be perfect! The Parker is an on trend long line casual coat with patch pockets. It can be make in a woven or knit fabric. It is an effortless design, perfect for a smart casual look. Sew it up in a fun fabric like this and you've got a statement coat for any occasion.
The collar sits high on the neck, allowing the revere to fall naturally. The original pattern features a horizontal hip seam and a stitched back vent. I chose to eliminate both of these great pattern options so that I could feature the designs in the fabric.
I planned the fabric placement carefully so that the two front pieces matched perfectly. Before cutting out the front and back panels I attached the top bodice pieces to the lower pieces to eliminate the hem seam. I cut out one side, placed the fabric right side up until the design matched perfectly along the remaining fabric, then pinned the pattern piece in place for an exact match. I put the upper and lower back pattern pieces together in the same way, and folded the back pleat over so the entire panel could be cut on the fold. I placed the hacked back panel along the fold of the central part of the main design that runs down the back of the jacket.
This was a heavy fabric to work with so it was more difficult to get the seams to lie flat even with considerable pressing. I added top stitching to the collar, front lapels and sleeve. It added a nice polished detail and ensured that the seams laid flat.
For the patch pockets I reversed the fabric. I liked how the darker side added subtle details to the finish of the coat. I love to use a frayed selvage edge on pockets, so this edge was perfect. I also used the reverse side of the fabric to create a contrast cuff. Subtle details that don't distract from the coat but add depth and interest to it.
I made a size 16 jacket based on bust measurements, then graded it down to a size 12 through the waist and hip. I added 4" to the sleeve length to allow enough length to fold over the cuff.
I would like to sew this pattern again in a knit fabric that will feature the seams as they do add wonderful details. After all.....
There is Sew Much To Design.
Happy Sewing,
Lou Sheffer
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