Waistcoats are making a serious comeback, and I couldn’t be more excited. They’re not just a nod to classic tailoring—they’re also a surprisingly versatile addition to any modern wardrobe. Whether styled casually or dressed up, a well-made waistcoat offers endless styling potential and easily transitions through the seasons.

One of the things I love most about sewing a waistcoat is how adaptable it is. Worn with matching linen trousers, it feels crisp and polished. Tossed over jeans, it brings a relaxed, boho vibe. On warmer days, it makes a chic standalone top, and when temperatures dip, it layers beautifully over a tee, long sleeve knit, or lightweight jumper.

Honestly, it’s one of those pieces that works with nearly everything—skirts, tailored trousers, shorts, culottes, even maxi skirts. Think of it as the ultimate layering essential.

A Closer Look at the Vivienne Pattern

I chose the Vivienne Waistcoat from Fibre Mood – a pattern that’s clean and minimal in shape, with subtle details that elevate the overall design. The silhouette is slightly relaxed to allow easy layering, and the vest is fully lined for a smooth, professional finish. It includes just three main bodice components: front, back, and side panels. Simple seams, elegant shaping.

I used a beautiful linen from Polytex Stoffen – a soft, structured fabric that worked perfectly for a summer suit. The pattern includes options for welt pockets, which can be left off for a quicker sew. I decided to go all in and give the welt pockets a try—it was a bit of a challenge, but absolutely worth the effort.

Tackling the Welt Pockets

Welt pockets add a tailored flair, but they do require some precision. The instructions walk you through each step carefully, with illustrations to guide you as you create the pocket bags and attach them. Once you’ve sewn the front and side panels together, it’s time to make the defining cuts and flip the pocket bags through to the back.

A word of advice? Make a test version on scrap fabric before cutting into your main fabric. I hand-stitched the ends of my welts for better accuracy and gave them a thorough press for a clean finish. Are they perfect? No. But am I proud of how they turned out for my first try? Definitely.

Construction Details

Once the pockets are complete, the rest of the sewing process is smooth and rewarding. The shoulder seams come together first, followed by construction of the lining. The pattern includes darts for shaping, and the side panels are easy to assemble. Facings are sewn on and topstitched around the neckline, which is a great time to add your label if you’re using one.

When the outer shell and lining are ready, you’ll join them together. This part takes a bit of time, especially around the armholes. The instructions recommend leaving part of the side seam open to allow you to manipulate the lining and sew it to the outer fabric. I found it even easier to leave both side seams open. You’ll be sewing small sections of the armhole a little at a time—if it feels like it’s going too easily, you might want to double-check that your right sides are aligned correctly!

This part can feel fiddly, but it’s worth taking your time. Once those seams are done, turning the vest right side out is so satisfying—you’ll really feel like you’ve leveled up your sewing skills.

Final Thoughts & Styling Plans

I’m thrilled with how my Vivienne turned out. It feels like a true next step in my sewing journey—mastering a new technique and achieving a tailored, elevated finish. I’m already thinking ahead to a fall version in denim with a bold, fun lining. I may skip the welt pockets next time for a cleaner, more casual look.

Whether you’re sewing your first waistcoat or adding to an existing collection, Vivienne is a rewarding pattern that blends style with skill-building. And best of all, it’s a piece you’ll reach for again and again.

Because as always… There is Sew Much To Design.